10/16/12 Redondela to Pontevedra

When I woke up this morning, it was raining.  Not a good sign.  As the day progressed it went from a drizzle to a torrential downpour.  At times, it was coming down sideways!  I sought refuge at one point in a makeshift cafe with several pilgrims.  A couple had converted their daylight basement into a bit of a cafe/tienda catering to pilgrims.  It was a welcome respite.

I met a doctor from Madrid and his wife, plus another couple from Avila.  The French pilgrims I kept running into were also there.  After a snack, I set off again and ended up walking with my new Spanish friends.  Once we arrived in Pontevedra, I said goodbye.  I continued walking to meet up with my Airbnb host.  She was close to the historical area and the Camino.  I am not sure of her real name, but her username was Morc (as was her little dog's name too!).  She took me to her apartment, located in a former synagogue in what was once considered the Jewish area of the city.  It was beautiful.  Very serene and quiet.  I was greeted with chant music, incense burning and a really nice vibe.  I immediately shed my wet clothes and took a nice, hot shower.  Morc served me lunch after my shower.  She is a vegetarian, so she served me lentil soup, salad with greens (a rarity on the Camino, where salad is usually iceberg lettuce) and whole grain bread with hot tea.  It was so delicious and very nutritious.  I took a nap and a couple of hours later, went out to explore.

Morc was so sweet and kind.  She offered me her Camino boots so I could leave my shoes behind to dry by the woodstove.  I couldn't resist her offer and her boots fit me perfectly.  I went out for a bit, visiting some churches and doing my usual wander when I am in a new town.  

There is a church in the shape of a shell, but there were a lot of people in it, so I didn't stick around too long.  I had some gelato and as I was walking there was a guy playing the Galician bagpipe.  I decided to toss a few Euros in his hat and he played me a beautiful song.  I am not sure what possessed me to give a street musician so much money, but it was totally worth it.  I had a relatively uneventful dinner and went back to the apartment and fell asleep!